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Last night one of my G2's started cracking real bad sounds like its gone.  Has anyone had one of these go and if so is it cheaper to repair or replace?

If it's cracking, chances are it's just the driver.  It would most likely be cheaper just to get the driver yourself & fix it.  
Is it cracking in the woofer or compression driver (tweeter)?

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It appears to be the woofer. When I turn the bass level down on the speaker it goes away but as soon as I turn it back up it starts cracking. Your saying I could replace this myself?

Usually when the  diaphragm in an eon goes bad the coil is open in which case it doesnt work at all.  I have never had tp replace a bass coil in an eon and would suspect other thing first.. The cone itself is about 1/2 " thick or more
 
But I do know one thing for sure.  If you contact JBL your phone will be falling off the wall Mon...

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Replace
http://www.speakerrepair.com/ocsdiaphragms.html

Thanks for the link allstar. So you think its better to replace the speaker rather than fix it?

Well if you replace the driver, then you've fixed it.  Make sure you replace with the same driver though.

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Thanks Lonman  :)   There is a pro audio company in my area that is JBL authorized to fix speakers. I'm going to take it to them.

It really isn't that hard to do yourself & alot cheaper.  I'm sure they can order the part for you.  Save the labor charge.

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The horn diaphragm is easy to replace...

The diaphragms are readily availible on Ebay for about $50 or can ordered Here
Sometimes the diaphragm itself is broke but usually the coil is open. It should read about 8 ohms.
Photo

The procedure is fairly easy and following is a basic tutorial with photos. The speaker is accessed by removing the back cover.

After removing the back cover a spline driver is needed to remove the 3 screws   Photo

The new diaphragm should have mark such as a red dot on the positive terminal if not note which end that the white or black wire is attached This is the minus or ground and can be verified by ohming to ground.  Carefully place the diaphragm inserting the coil into the slot with the holes aligned    Photo

 Replace the cover and tighten the screws fairly snug.  A test can be run before putting the back cover back on but it should work......g

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He doesn't need the horn, he needs the 15" which basically means taking the grill off, unscrewing the old driver, taking it out noting the connection wires, connect the new driver, set it in, screw it down, replace grill.

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He said if he attenuated the bass, the cracking stopped......

He needs to inspect both drivers.

The odds are he was clipping and damaged the horn.

I'm thinking he had the bass boosted via EQ or BBE or similar, or just too hot from the board.

Not necessarily.  I've had several subs (have a Peavey 18" exihibiting same thing now) do just that.  Sometimes the coil heat enough to stay connected but will warp it or move the windings just enough that they start hitting things they don't normally hit & it exhibits cracking on the output.

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 Keith you might be right.  :(   I have had nothing but trouble since using the BBE 882i. Going by the directions it seems to be connected properly: Using XLR out from board to BBE out to JRX Sub out to Eons. I never set levels above 4 for processing and 3/4 for LO on the BBE. The weird thing is when I use the button on the BBE to bypass to hear the difference I dont hear a difference.  :shock:  Now I do push the levels on my mackie dfx 12 in one of my venues but I'm constently monitoring the speakers to make sure their not clipping. Now one thing did happen that night that could be the problem. We had a terrible wind storm and the power flickered on and off for about 15 to 20 seconds but I have surge protectors on everything. But the reason I think it could be the issue is because my cdg player that was connected to the same protector stopped working after that. Thanks for all your help. Bob

3/4 on the Lo - does that equate to 3:00 oclock>?  MUCH too high of a setting.  The BBE shouldn't be thought of as a bass & treble control, it's a frequency aligner to make the speaker sound more efficient.  For live PA nothing on it should be set over 12:00 oclock.
Also remember, your speaker will hear clipping before your ears ever do & even though you may not hear the distortion, it's happening.  If you find you need to crank bass up that high, you might consider adding a sub - sounds like you need it.

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Lonman, make sure to limit your mains and subs with 40 Hz low cut filters...Steep slope low cut filters....Especially when loud and boosting with BBE or EQ on bottom end....The 40Hz and below drain your amps and/or cause overexcursion of the woofer/subwoofer cones/coils....if the amps drains and you are running full range on the tops, then the horns clip....If you are running biamped to the subs, then the sub amp might clip or the sub woofer will overtravel.

Micbob, try disconnecting the BBE and running flat on any EQ in the board or outboard....Make sure to plug your player into a strip/strips where you can tweek the input gain so as not to overdrive...Many small mixers don't have input gain adjustments on the stereo strips, so often an MP3 will overdrive the input of the mixer....Many factory CD's are recorded very hot and so are many of our rips from CD's/CD+G's....It's really easy to overdrive/clip an input before the amp....You need to remember that powered speakers can be clipped before the amp and that the perfect amp/speaker match offered by the powered cab won't prevent damage....Never clip before the amp.

Place mixer masters at unity, then trim inputs to where you get a clip light just every now and then-then back off a tad....next increase channel sliders to where you have good sound level/mix.....If then you don't have enuff sound pressure levels in the venue, you need more/bigger cabs and amps....If you discover you are increasing the board masters above unity, then you need to add more amps and drivers or bigger amps/drivers or you will clip the amp inputs.

Remember that the BBE needs headroom.....It can fersure make your cabs offer more bass and brighter highs, but only so long as your cabs/amps can handle it.

The better your speakers/system and your skills, the less you need a BBE.

Sounds like he has a JBL sub that he feeds first, then passes high and mids to the Eon 2 tops.

Where'd you gather that from?  If he has the Lo Contour of the BBE set at 3/4 (I am interpreting this as 3:00 approx), then it stands to reason that there is no sub set up.  If there was there shouldn't be any reason why the Lo should be set that high, the system would sound like the back of a 18 year olds Eclipse with dual 18's.
But I could be wrong as he didn't state anything about a sub.

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Here is his quote....I shortened it a little, but it states his signal path from board thru the JRX sub to his EON tops....

I'd like to mention here........

Most of us use consumer grade CD/CD+G players to host shows....We do that because that is all that is available.

Folks need to remember that consumer grade players output at different levels than most pro level mixer inputs can handle....They tend to overdrive the mixer inputs.

The best answer is to input to the mixer at a stereo strip that has input gain twisty knob or to come into two mono strips where one is left and the other right....All mixers allow you to tweek input on mono strips, but not all offer an input gain on stereo strip inputs.