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Correct. I've been working on networking all day long with slower speeds and they should have been Mb/s.

The problem with Firewire 800 is I haven't seen it anywhere other than on the high end Macs. I haven't seen any external devices that take advantage of the new standard and I haven't seen it on laptops yet. I'm still finding an occasional laptop without firewire connections on it at all even though it's my preferred connection. I'm about to order a Mackie Onyx mixer and I'm curious to see how the firewire option card works with regard to moving all those audio streams around. I'm espcially curious to see how it handles the 2 return streams and if it would be possible to use those 2 streams from the computer when I go digital late this year....hmmm...

I'm sure most already have found what I am about to say out either from "hard knocks", or research. Perhaps just word of mouth.
Be VERY carefull about buying electronic devices off've venues such as Ebay. If you see something that you feel is a fabulous price, and an offer you can't refuse first scrutinize the sellers feedback, make SURE you research the shipping and handling fee's, and make certain the seller will take back, defective, damaged equipment and has some type of return policy. If these terms aren't stated someplace within the sellers content, never assume the seller will acknowledge terms of sale, that a reputable large retail chain (or even a small local retailer) will honor.
I've purchased on Ebay. Worked as a volunteer on the Ebay Buyer, seller, and feedback boards. I've personally had great luck with the purchases of some more obscure collectable type Ebay items, yet can say from my own experiences that the purchasing of intricate electronic type devices (audio and computer related especially) is a buyer beware area. Many nightmarish stories about Scamming, defective items not taken back, damaged items received because of poor packaging, money taken yet items deliberately never delivered, money taken and seller falls off face of earth a few hours later, and some less fraudulent yet equally frustrating stories such as, "Seller sold me defective item, yet still charged me $30 return shipping on defective item, even tho I payed $30 dollars shipping initially for this one CD, the seller won't even split the shipping costs on the replacment".
What I found to be most common is that items often don't arrive "as described". Although I've been lucky enough to never have experienced opening my NIB (New in box) or MINT condition tape players, only to have a family of mice run off with the three styrofoam peanuts and the lemon decals that were attached to the device. I have been at the receiving end of (supposed) MINT condition items arriving poorly packaged (no bubble wrap, or even peanuts) just in plain box with no protection, only to hear the "UPS must've done it" story. Yet even assuming that were true, that wouldn't account for the coffee rings on the top of the chasis.
I think most agree, that since problems with electronic devices are common after the initial purchase, in most cases it's wise to pay a few extra dollars to receive the POMG one get's when buying from a well known, reputable retailer whenever it is possible.
Assuming it hasn't already been done, A separate thread can, and should be dedicated to do's, and don'ts of purchasing on the internet. What appears to be a comedy to the reader of such horrendous stories, is usually someone elses nightmare.

Jbrobison, I purchased an X series 112 tube amp, and a Tele-style semi-hollow guitar. As most know, a guitar is risky to buy online (I'm a vintage guitar collector). since no two of even the same brand and model sound identicle. Carvin however received such praise in many of the musicians boards, and offered such a generous return policy, I bit the bullet. I also purchased some smaller, and more general items from them. Schaller strap-loks, amp stand, etc.

Hey Morten,
I never heard Carvin "stacks", I considered Carvin when I purchased my PA cabs, yet went with Fender blow-outs (not as in blown out speakers) and the free S&H AMS offered. The cabs were rated well, were rediculously generously priced, and offered what I felt I needed for a small room, not just for vocal apps, yet also the high output of keyboard, and synths.
As for my own equipment, My stack is Marshall (JCM). Yet I also have cabs sitting in storage that are JBL, Altec, Ampeg, Ampeg heads (can't beat the classic SVT for bass) Fender, VOX, and some other stuff too. Only amp I keep upstairs with me is the '65 reissue Fender Twin.

I love their power amps. Currently in the process of switching out the rest of my amps all to Carvin. The sound man that used to run our band ran a complete Carvin Pa from amps/mixers/subs/monitors & it sounded killer, that was when I started taking a closer look & found that they were cheaper & very comparable to some of the "name" brands & in certain areas perform better - but I would whole heartedly recommend their power amps. A 2000 watt amp for $500 - you can't beat it for the quality it is. That equates to 425 watts per channel into 8 ohms, 700 watts per channel into 4 ohms & 1000 watts per channel @ 2 ohms. Bridged is 1000/2000 watts into 8/4 respectively.

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I might be mistaking Lonman, yet those specs and comparable prices can also be found in Crown, and Peavey power amps. Nady of course (not sure of their quality) is less expensive, and QSC, and Yamaha, abit more (yet only by about $100). Considering the larger mail order companies offer free S&H on orders exceding a few hundred dollars, I'd have to really know that Carvin power amps before paying (when all is said and done) are truly that much nicer than Crown, prior to taking a chance on a Carvin Power Amp. I suppose their reputation has served them well since their beginning days in the 1950's in Covina. After-all, even I, I very conservative buyer, took a chance with them. Are their amps nicer than Crown ?

Steven,

Read the spec's REALLY close on the other amps, I think you will find quite a difference in value with the Carvins. Sometimes what you think you will be getting is quite different after reading the small print.

Another interesting point, I've never heard anyone complain of overheating a DCM series Carvin amp,,, but I sure have read a lot of posts on several boards about overheating on most of the amps you mentioned.

Morten, are you serious ? a 2x18 sub cab for HOME USE ? Isn't that a bit much ? a sub cab with 12 or 15 is generally enough. Personally I like 15, yet the way cabs are designed these days, a powered 12 can deliver an awful lot of sound. It's true, the higher the placement from the floor in a cab, the more bass frequency lost to the ear. What I'm probably going to do with my 3way Fender 15 cabs, is go with a 15 inch sub, which is designed to be placed on the floor, supporting the stand and one of the 15 inch cabs. Since sub frequencies aren't discernible to the ear direction or placement-wise, this will save some room. No reason to have more than one sub in a 15x15 room IMHO. I don't know how you'd even power one 18 in a medium, or even large home environment. That's thunderous

Jbrobison, You are probably correct, I was just basing my info. on the Ohm ratings listed in most general specs. As far as differences in the quality, and durability, I suppose that's what I'm asking about.

Most of the spec's you read list power rating at 2 ohms, peak or pulse. Carvin list them 4 & 8 ohm, RMS continous. Big difference. I have a Carvin DCM1000 & a DCM1015, love them. Provided sound at an outside festival a couple of years ago, played all day, 103 in the shade, never skipped a beat. Clean & clear with plenty of headroom.

Sure there are "name" brands that look like they could be similar for the same price. However those are usually the "name" brands lower quality line made in China, Taiwan & wherever else they can get cheap parts & labor. Behiringer makes a 1500 watt amp that looks almost identical to the QSC RMS1450 (which even the RMS series is made in the cheap labor companies overseas), but they are nowhere NEAR the same in quality to the Carvin. Now compare the nearest QSC amp - the PLX2402 to the The Carvins & now you have about the same quality amp but the QSC amp runs about $900. The reason they can sell much cheaper is that they DON'T go through a middle man that will jack the price up. Even Crown has a low grade amp - the XLS series, don't compare, but it would compare to say the CE2000 & XS700. It would not compare to the Micro or Macro Tech series, but then those are $1200+ amps.

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SHould've taken a look at the Legacy stack. Would rate it very close to a Mesa Boogie Triple Rectifier.

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Thanks guys, these are the "more than meets the eye" areas I'd probably find out the hard way on. Since I'm not a technical person, these are area's where I'd be fooled. I go thru this with guitar buyers that aren't aware of the differences between all the stratocaster lines, IE... Standard Stratocaster, Reissue vs Vintage, Vintage reissue, American Standard, etc. These days it's very difficult to know just what you are getting when you buy something based upon a :name: that once implied quality. Seems that so many companies have compromised their quality, to try to reach a larger area of the market I didn't think the day would ever come that Martin, and Taylor did this. Thanks for the heads up on amps. Since Carvin remains tucked away, the companies that are represented in the music stores have the advantage of more representation.

Steven,

I am condering the Steve Vai signature Legacy stack from Carvin. I am going for the half stack: 100 W tube head (EL34's standard) with 4x12 Celestion vintage 30 cab. From all the sound samples I have heard (from members etc) it sounds very good. Good enough to buy it and check it out for 10 days and (very unlikely) return it.

According to user reviews it can hold its against all the big names. It is not a heavy metal amp, but with a little outboard gain it sounds good even for that.

Lonman, I love those DCM's also. I am biamping my speakers with a DCM2000 and a DCM1500.

Morten

My guitar is a custom built Carvin bolt neck guitar with swamp ash body and HSH configuration. $800 and it kicks the butt of anything fender.

So you think 2x18 is a bit much for a home?? My top cabs are Carvin 1584 (take a look at my equipment in the home setup topic posted by Dr.D). I want a sub that can move with them and I want to be able to put it outside in the backyard for summer parties

Though my next purchase is going to be the halfstack.

Morten

Speaking of cabs. Did any of you take a look at the TRX series from Carvin. Looks like a more reasonable priced version of the TCS line with many of the features.

That sub just rocks: 2x18 in 13 ply baltic birch cab with a sensitivity of 102 dB SPL/W/m and tolerates 1200 Wrms/3200 Wpeak. WOW!!!

Morten

Morten, I was just looking thru my old Carvin cat. this morning while I was trying to weed out the old music mailers that accumulate over time. I did see the legacy stack. Vai is standing in front of. Also their Marshall type stack. I looked at the power amps you guys were chatting about too.


I wonder if their redline bass series is close to SWR in specs. In looking at them briefly, I just got the impression that's what they were trying to do with that design.

Currently my bass gear is either Ampeg for tube. Or for tranny, I have a Trace-Elliot stack.


I have the celestion vintage 30's in my Marshall JCM checkered slant, and straight cabs. Not sure if these are the 1960A and B cabs, or pre-1960 series. My heads for the Marshall of both 2205 JCM-800 and the 2210 (100 watt head for outdoor purposes, more headroom). The JCM 800 heads are from the 80's. I never liked that actual JCM 800, or 900 1960A or B cabs. My cabs are pretty old late 60's, or early 70's. I blew a speaker, and one of my first tech type undertakings was learning about wiring in Series, Parallel, or series/parallel. hehe, I really don't feel comfortable doing that type of stuff, I have yet to even Bias my own heads

AO, If you are capable of moving a 2x18 reflex type bass cabinet from your home, to the outside.. You are a stronger, and younger person than I. In the old days when audio technology wasn't as efficient, I gigged with cabs such as the Sunn Coliseum, heavy folded horn type cabs with 2x15's. Of course in those days cabs like that were used for 300 watts. They probably weighed close to 300 lbs too. Today, small cabs with 1x12, and 2x10 are pushing that, and more. Yet not sure if the actual volume to the ear of 100 watts tube vs tranny translates to the same loudness. I vaguely recall a ratio of about 3/1 difference, tube amp volume isn't as graduated incrementally. In most amp settings. The tube amp would be much louder. My classic SVT refrigerator type bac is 8x10 Celestions and that thing ways at least 180 lbs. In it's day it was designed to go with the 300 watt classic head with about 6 6L66's.

Cabs and speaker technology is more efficient today. I can't imagine why anyone would want a cumbersome superfluous monstrosity that weighs 250 lbs. and is designed to push 2000-4000 watts for "home" use

It is only 167 pounds

The thing I can buy two single 18 or this dual for the same price. And it seems to be a much better speaker.

Morten

They look very interesting, haven't had the chance to hear one yet, but bet I wouldn't be disappointed though. The 153 is completely tri-amp capable, so they aren't playing around! That's rare in a 3 way. Even the monitors are bi-amp ready.

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