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I just ordered a pair of Yorkville NX55Ps and was thinking about ordering the Yorkville LS700P to get more thump when I came across the B1800X PRO.  This subwoofer seems to be quite good considering its price and is also good looking.
Does anyone on this board own this sub and what do you think of it?
I know that Behringer is not known for having quality products, but could the B1800X PRO be a good buy?

Thoughts, anyone?

JD

Well,

The Behringer sub has a spl of 100db
The yorkvilee is 131db

5db represents a doubling in loudness to the human ear.

So in sense the yourkville is 12 times louder than the behringer.

I would consider the Yorkville LS800P as it is a 18" speaker vs 2 - 10"

Stick with Yorkville, the sound and warranty more than makes up for the expense.  Quality is worth it.  The 700s (we use them) are much more than adequate.  Though I would have went with the 550s for the tops.  Guarantee you would not be disappointed.

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Thank you for your responses.
Liquiddye, the LS800P is awesome.  However, it is too heavy and too expensive for me.
Timberlea, the 550 was an old model, and has been replaced with NX55P.  I like the LS700P, but I wonder if the two 10-in woofer would have as much thump as a single 18-in woofer?  
Basically, the sub I am looking for is powered and should not be too big, expensive, or heavy.

OK thanks, that's about the third number change for that model.  Improvements I guess (ours is 520s ).  If you're looking for lighter, the 200s for their size are pretty good.  We use one when one of the 700s have to go in for normal maintenence.

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Perhaps you can audition the Behringers before you buy?

10" drivers can do a great job with bass. They tend to offer really tight and punchy bass, but in a limited frequency range compared to the larger 18". They will work well in smaller rooms especially if you filter out freqs too low for them to handle. I would never ask 10" subwoofers to play below 60hz.

Try to determine their excursion/cone travel specs and you will have a better idea how much air they can move in relation to other speakers larger in size.

Bass drivers with high cone excursion limits need an amp with good damping specs to keep the bass tight, so don't prevent them from performing their best by skimping on the amp.

Smaller drivers with short travel do best on bass when you have several of them(4 or more) and will work well with a sloppy amp providing you limit them to 60hz when at higher sound pressure levels.

You will discover that bass is the most expensive and the hardest to get right, but it offers great rewards once it is right.

The man is most correct that 131 dB vs 100 dB is an absolutely huge difference in SPL's. Those figures reflect the speakers efficiency and can allow you to directly compare how well they use the power you supply them.

Bass, unlike mids and highs, can always use more SPL's and not seem as offensive/deafening as mids and highs.....Bass is something you want to feel, not just hear, so keep it tight and keep it powerful enuff to flip skirts and thump chests.

Keep in mind that the chest cavity resonates at about 85hz, so don't waste money trying to get too low on bass....The lower you go, the more it costs to do it right....50-60hz is a very realistic and affordable bottom for playing back prerecorded materials like KJ/DJ stuff.....Home theater stuff needs to go lower, but not dance music.

Thanks, Timberlea.  I'm convinced that the LS700P would be a good match for the NX55P.
Keith, thank you for sharing your expertise.  You have reinforced what Liquiddye has pointed out.  I have been rebuilding my system and I want to do it right this time, so the LS700P is definitely on top of my list.  I recently sold my Carvin PA1200C and I am still trying to sell my Carvin 1584s.  Although I was happy with the Carvins, I want to have smaller and lighter speakers without sacrificing sound quality and spending a lot of money.
The more I research subs, the more I get drawn back to Carvin.  I am also looking into the following:
1. Carvin SW1801BA - 18in. 700W APS Powered Subwoofer - $579.99

2. Carvin SW1801B - 18 in. passive subwoofer - $379.99
Specs:
Frequency Response: 50 Hz to 450 Hz ±3 dB
Useable Low Frequency: 42 Hz (-10 dB)
Power Handling: 800w continuous
Recommended Amp: 100 to 1500 watts
Sensitivity: 98 dB SPL, 1 Watt @ 1 meter
Coverage Angles: 90° Horizontal, 45° Vertical
Nominal Impedance: 4
Inputs/Outputs: Two 1/4", two Twist-Lok
Woofer Enclosure Type: Vented Box
Enclosure: Internally braced Black Duratuff II™
Dim/Wt: 20"W x 22.5"D x 24"H, 63.7 lbs.

3. Carvin TRX118B - 800w Single 18 - $449.99
Specs:
Frequency Response: 35Hz to 150Hz +/-3dB
Useable Low Frequency: 29 Hz (-10dB)
Impedance / Power Handling: 8 ohms / 800W
Sensitivity: (SPL 1W / 1M) 98 dB
Connections: Neutrik NL4 connectors
Configurations: Subwoofer
Enclosure: Cross grain laminated 13 ply Baltic birch
Finish: Black DuraTex™ scratch resistant, UV stable
Dim: 20W x 22.5D x 24H”, 78 lbs

If I go with a passive sub, I am thinking of buying a Carvin DCM2500 to power it.  The TRX118B has impressive frequency response but weighs more.  The question is: "Will this be too much bass for the NX55P?"

Alright, the die is cast.  I just bought a brand new, unopened Carvin DCM2500 for only $300.  I will then buy the Carvin TRX118B and power it with the DCM2500 bridged for a total of 1700 watts RMS continuous at 8 ohms.  
I am going with a passive sub because the TRX118B weighs 78 lbs and has really impressive frequency range.  The non-Carvin powered subs are either too heavy or too expensive.  The DCM2500 can take another TRX118B if I ever need another sub, or it can power the Carvin 1584s.
By the way, I was able to listen to the Carvin 1584s at a local store with the DCM2000 and it sounded a lot better than when I was driving them with the PA1200C which has only 200 watts at 8 ohms.  The nice fellow at the Carvin store said that with only 200 watts, I was barely tickling the 1584s.  I can't wait to hook up the DCM2500 with the 1584s.  Heck, I might just keep the 1584s since most of the offers I've been getting for them are ridiculously low.

You da Man!......Now you got some WATTS!

You could arc weld with that amp if you wanted.

Note of caution:.... For subwoofer speaker cable when bridged, use binding post on amp and Neutrik NL4 on speaker end of cable....You can buy a cable already made up with banana plugs for the binding posts on one end and Neutrik NL4 on the other, or you can make one....Just be sure to use 12 AWG or larger conductors and keep the cable no longer than really needed.

I think you will be very impressed with your bottom end soon.

Yes, you will not be disappointed with that combo.  The Carvins are kind of like Peaveys, they sound best with plenty of power behind them.

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The DCM amps have a Speakon bridged output so no reconfiguring is needed.

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Thanks, Keith!  I was lucky to buy the DCM2500 for only $300, considering that it was brand new.  Carvin sells this amp for $569 plus tax.
Lonnie, I am getting real close to completing my new setup.  Since I had sold the PA1200C, I will no longer be able to use the Carvin PM5B as spot monitors.  I am thinking of buying a powered floor monitor.  Do you have any recommendations?

Actually the JBL EON15 makes a great floor monitor.  Not the G2 series.

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Great!...Carvin seems to be in the lead in offering such flexibility in connectivity in a lower priced product line.

I got some tricks up my sleeve on how to power a floor monitor on the cheap.

If you happen to be running your mains in stereo off an unbridged amp, you can actually connect a third speaker across the red binding posts and use it as a floor monitor or far field cabinet.

Yep, I swear you can safely do that.......The amp will be operating in stereo like before  with an 8 ohm speaker on each channel and an 8 ohm speaker for a monitor, but the amp power-wise will think it is operating in bridged mode into a 4 ohm load, and the monitor will get a mono signal which is what you want anyway.

And we all know what happens when an amp thinks it is in bridged mode into 4 ohms-it develops more power!.....So my friend, you get free power for that third speaker, and you are still running stereo with plenty of power for your mains, and you get off cheap by not having to buy an extra amp for the monitor!

To do this properly, all you need is a non powered speaker that has a volume knob on it.....All true PA stage monitors will have a volume knob......You set it once and forget it...The monitor will then follow the mains in volume as you crank it up in down at your mixer masters....The monitor will always be at the right SPL in relation to the mains!  

This little trick works very well and allows you to add a monitor without buying another amp or paying big bucks for a powered monitor.

Don't thank me, thank Peavey's Marty McCann for the idea.

Gotta love their amps!  I got 1 more to replace & i'll be running all Carvin amps.

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Thanks, Keith!  I will be using the DCM2500 to power a sub, but my Yorkville NX55Ps which are powered speakers will be the mains.  How can I hook up a passive monitor with this setup?
Lonnie, thank you again for your suggestion.  The JBL Eon 15 is indeed a great monitor.  However, I need a monitor that is small and does not cost a lot money.
The same guy who sold me the DCM2500 is offering a Carvin XC3000 Crossover.  Do I need one?

If you are using separate amps for your subs & mains, then yes i'd recommend one.  It will give you more control of your system in different rooms.  If the sub has one built in with a high pass filter & you are only using 1 amp, you will probably be fine.

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PR10PNEO/

Possible monitor, not big on this line, but it might work?

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Thanks again, Lonnie.  The Peavey looks like a good fit for my needs.  It is small and lightweight.  

Alternatively, I am thinking of getting a DCM600 to power 2 PM5Bs.  I could probably buy the DCM600 for $100 from the same guy.  He also has a DCM1500.  These amps are all brand new.

BTW, I have the CFX12 and it has a sub out.  I did order the NX55Ps and they are arriving tomorrow.  Here is what Yorkville states about the NX55Ps with respect to having a sub:
"The NX55P has a selectable two position high-pass filter to limit extraneous low frequency rumble, or to crossover at the input so the loudspeaker can easily and effectively be used with subwoofers from a single full range source. Engaging the high pass filter also makes the NX55P a more efficient and effective vocal monitor."

I am going to buy the TRX118B soon from a local store.  It appears that their prices are negotiable and that you could potentially have one Carvin store competing with another.  The manager of the local Carvin store refused to quote me his best price over the phone because he said that some customers used the info to get a better price from other Carvin stores.  

It seems that the best way for me to hook up the sub is to use the CFX12 sub out.  Do you agree?

While the sub out on the Mackie does work & sends a good sub signal, it doesn't do anything to cut the sub frequencies to the main speakers so they are essentially trying to reproduce the same frequencies which kind of defeats the purpose of the crossover in the first place.  But if those Yorks you are looking at has the high pass filter, then you might be able to get away without needing the external, at least for a while  :)

As far as the other DCM amp, if you have the choice to run the mains with a 600 or 1500, if you can opt for the 1500, the 600 isn't really much to run mains with.  I have 1 running just my high frequenies.

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