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Cables For You Karaoke Setup
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Author:  karaoke for food..... [ Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Cables For You Karaoke Setup

I would imagine some of us have different views on cables that connect our players, speakers, amplifier, mixer, microphones, laptops, and other outboard equipment. For instance i enjoy making my own cables, and i use only mogami, and canare cable, and neutrik, or switchcraft gold connectors. I was wondering what your thoughts on cables might be, and the significance you place on your cables.

Author:  Lonman [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 1:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cables For You Karaoke Setup

I just get good quality (not necessarily top of the line name brand) 10-12 guage speaker cable - depending on the length of the run.  My mic cords are liftime warrantied (if it goes bad, I take it back to GC for a free replacement) & everything else is just Hosa standard (rarely any movement or problems).  If I did custom anything it would probably be bulk speaker cable.

Author:  jamkaraoke [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 5:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cables For You Karaoke Setup

I am in the middle...I am not buying my cables at Target but I am also not using the very top of the line MONSTER cables etc.  My speaker and Mic cables I generally purchase from MF and buy a pro quality. ( again I am not spending $95 for a mic cable)  I admit for some RCA to RCA (usually for the monitors ) I have used some less expensive 3ft - 6ft cables.  But then again if anyhing goes wrong I usually have repalcements in my handy box!

Author:  karyoker [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cables For You Karaoke Setup

For short runs like in the mixer I like shacks

I cut them in half (put the ninety in the mixer) and then when the routing  is right and dressed with cable ties I cut to length. If I know the unit they are going to is going to be there awhile I run the cable thru the jack put thin cardboard in the jacks to open them, put a cable tie on the cable for  a strain relief then solder the ends to the circuit  board.

Out of habit I still do the mic cords although Lonnie does have the right idea about getting lifetime replacements. I do run balanced audio to powered speakers so I get good quality cable and do my own After Im in a venue for awhile all the runs are cut to length.

Here is a good read crutchfield


Code:

Anatomy of a cable

There are three main parts of a cable which affect signal quality: the conductor, the shielding, and the connector. The conductor is the part of the cable through which the signal actually passes. Since the conductor is basically a wire which can act as an antenna to receive radio frequency interference (RFI) and electromagnetic interference (EMI), a good cable also includes some kind of shielding, to filter out these potential sources of noise. The connector is the part of the cable that actually comes into contact with your gear; types of connectors include RCA, S-video, and F-type.
Audio interconnects

Most good audio cables contain an oxygen-free copper (OFC) conductor, which passes signals accurately with minimal signal loss. Many cables also include two separate shields — one made of braided copper, to guard against RFI, and one made of foil, to guard against EMI — so that no annoying buzzes or "pops" are introduced into the signal.

In many cables, the shield is grounded only on the end that connects to the audio or video source, so that interference will drain away from the destination end of the cable. Cables of this type often have directional arrows printed on their jackets, and should be hooked up with the arrow pointing away from the source.

Connectors are extremely important to cable quality. Good RCA connectors provide constant, high-pressure contact with your components' jacks, and are usually gold-plated to prevent corrosion. This results in high-quality signal transfer that won't cut out intermittently or degrade over time.

Some manufacturers offer several different levels of cable quality; how do you pick the level that's right for your system? If you've noticed lots of interference in your picture or sound, or if you're running cable over a relatively long distance, look for the best shielding you can afford. (However, if you find you need an audio interconnect longer than 30 feet, you'll get better results by running longer speaker cable instead, and moving your components closer to one another.)

able connection tips

Follow these general rules of thumb to get the best results from your cables:

    * Avoid long cable runs if possible — the shorter the cable, the better.
    * That said, make sure your cables are long enough, especially if your components are shelved in such a way that the rear panels are difficult to access. There should be enough slack to let you pull the component forward and reach the rear panel.
    * Because they can introduce interference into the signal, try to keep power cords away from signal cords. If this isn't possible, at least try to minimize contact between the two.
    * If an interconnect has arrows printed on its jacket, hook it up so that the arrow is pointing away from the signal source, and toward the destination.
    * Avoid kinking or bending cable. Don't try to make a short cable reach — it can put stress on the connector and potentially cause damage. Buy a longer cable, if necessary. (This is especially important for optical interconnects.)
    * Don't keep excess cable lying in loops. Arrange it in an "S" shape or a figure-eight instead; this can help minimize electromagnetic interference.



I have literally strung miles of audio, speaker, video and Rf cables. In long runs audio isnt that critical (balanced ) video is a little harder RF is very critical  when length and quality are are  factors esp in the UHF and super high freq range which is usually wave guide
anyway.

Cable runs can mean the difference in all kinds of installations I have fought RFI or buzz for years (50). LMAO  But signal quality (and sometimes audio can be the hardest) is a combination of several factors...

Side note... When we were running speaker cable in bulk we could buy the clear 14 guage 1000 foot spool for  $60 ... I would shudder to walk into an electronics supply now!!! LMAO

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