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Not necessarily.  The tinny sound he may be hearing might just be mostly mids & highs or lack of bass.

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Yes the tinny is from lack of lower tones. When I connect the sub and power it up the tinny goes away, but the bass speaker does not have a cross over on it. The weird thing is that sometimes everything is great sounding, but other times not so good. I have 2 different eqs one on the powered mixer, and the eq on the computer, I am just not very good at using eqs, I have everything on my mixer, and eqs set at flat. I have read many things about people using to much trebble and blowing their highs. I should play with the eq a little and see what I come up with. I also use mid karaoke effects to give a fuller sound, but I think that this causes some tinny as well.

Little Lady,

Let's get technical....I'm thinking you are capable of understanding technical stuff, and I got the rest of the night, so let's teach you what you need to blow them guitar center sales idiots off the sales floor.

Speakers:.......Speakers have spec ratings that you gotta get familar with. All true pro PA speakers will have a label on the back near the cable jacks. That label will list the power rating of the speaker....It will list 3 power ratings in watts.....You need to learn what they mean...It's easy, so don't wad up on me.

The first of the three will always be watts 'RMS' or "continuous"....It will be the smaller of the 3 in watts......RMS watts is what the speaker can handle if you fed it a steady tone.....Like a constant hum sound.

The second of the 3 will be called "program" and it will usually be twice the watts rating of RMS.....program is a watts rating for when playing typical music.....the level of the music goes up and down rapidly....So the rating is higher because you are not sending the speaker a steady tone...that means the speaker doesn't get a continuous power level, it instead experiences a constantly changing level so it can be a higher level without damaging it.

The last rating is "Peak" watts.....and it is usually 3 times as high as RMS watts.....Peak watts is what the speaker can handle for just those short instances that sometimes occur in music.....

So let's pretend you are looking at a speaker where the label says "200 watts RMS, 400 watts program, 600 watts peak"......That means you want an amp that will deliver at least the program rating of that speaker....In this case you would want an amp that will deliver 400 watts for each speaker connected to it as a minimum.....A better amp would deliver the peak rating of 600 watts, but program rating is good enough and not likely to harm your speaker from too little power.

So ok, now you know you need an amp that offers program rating or better....Let's add the last little detail you need to know.

Amps have labels too.....and they also have several ratings listed on them....They will list power at different "Loads"....loads are described in ohms.....The label will state(example) 400 watts/channel at 4 ohms, or 200 watts/channel at 8 ohms.....What that means is it will deliver different levels of power depending on what the ohm rating of your speakers are.

So if you have two 8 ohm speakers and connect them to that amp, the speakers will only get 200 watts each....If they were 4 ohm speakers, they would get 400 watts each.

Now let's pretend to go shopping for an amp.....you first look on the back of your speakers and write down all the data off their labels.....You see they are(example) 8 ohms, they are rated 200, 400, 600 watts.......So you need an amp that offers 400 watts/channel @ 8 ohms in stereo for those two speakers......600 watts/channel @ 8 ohms is mobetter, but 400 will just fine.

Now go into guitar center and tell that idiot you want an amp that delivers the program or peak watts at the ohms ratings of your speakers!

LIke I said Tinnny soud is still there, just over powered by the SUBS.

We probably should have asked what speakers she is using now.  Perhaps a 15" Pa would fix the problem withut buying a sub.  Perhaps she is using 10" speakers  rignt now.

for a garage, you don't need bunches and bunches of power! !

I have a yamaha setup that is the emx312s which is 200w, the speakers are br12 which are 300w.

When they put this together as a package deal, they told me that the two matched and that if I went bigger on amperage, I would have to buy bigger speakers. I am very upset with these guys. I am going to check my return policy. I think they are 5 months old though.

Is there anyway I can bridge the 2 speakers to create more power, or is this not advised? Thank you.

That particular model is not bridgeable.  Even if you ran both speakers on 1 channel to bring it to 4 ohms, the amp would push 300 watts @ 4 ohms, but then your speakers program rating would also go up to need 600 watts @ 4 ohms.

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From The Looks Of Blackroses Equipment It Is Obviously Underpowered, But she Also Says That She Uses It In Her Garage And It Sounds TINNY, I Had The Same Problem In My Basement Although I Have Powerful Amps And Good Speakers, It Wasn't Until I Improved The ACOUSTICS Of The Room By Adding Alot Of FOAM And PADDING On The Walls And Ceiling And CARPETING On The Floor That I Was ABLE To Achieve The Sound I Desired. Maybe She Needs To (DEADEN) Her Sound ENVIROMENT So Her SOUND Can Be ABSORBED Instead Of BOUNCING All Over The Place Which Contributes To It Sounding TINNY.

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Man Must Know His Limitations -Clint Eastwood

Good point!

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Off topic, but it was driving me nuts: blackroses gender symbol shows male.......

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My Mistake... No Disrespect Intended... Where I Live People Get SHOT Over Such Things... Amazing Isn't  It!

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Man Must Know His Limitations -Clint Eastwood

You guys are not going to believe this, first off, I am male, I did not even realize the she in some of the posts . Anyways, I took some advice and sent off a email to Guitar Center, I very nicely stated my facts, and what you fine folks said here, and they called me and said that the guy who sold me the stuff was not versed in pro audio, and if I bring in the equipment (5 months later) they will make it right by adding a emx512sc and match with new speakers. Is that awesome or what?! Thank you all very much!

Good deal!

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too kewl!!

Yea I told the guy about the advice I recieved from the pros here, and they were very apologetic, so I will be powering these br12's with a emx512sc! I am really excited to hear the difference!

Do you think a maximizer would work in this situation? Or will the new amp be enough to actually drive these speakers, because when I had a car stereo, my 2 12 in fosgate speakers rattled my car and my moms house. That is the kind of bass I would expect out of a $300 dollar speaker. Thank you all again!

Listen to it first.  Again, the maximizer isn't a cure all or a band-aid, many people use it & think it's just a neat bass & treble control.  It's not designed as that, it's a frequency aligner that delays the high, mid & low frequencies so the speakers reproduce cleaner.  The added power will probably suffice.  Again, 12" speakers in PA use are not designed nearly the same as a 12" home or car speaker.  12" PA speakers are generally considered midrange speakers - in larger venues, a small space like the garage should yield better low results with the proper power behind them.

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Also note that the two 12s in your car were probably subwoofer speakers with sub drivers designed to drive a lower frequency of sound. Even though the woofers in the BR12s are the same size, they are not driven by subwoofer drivers, they recreate a higher range of woofer sound. Thus, they will make the frequencies they are designed to reproduce sound much better than those 12s in your car, but I wouldn't expect them to exactly be rattling the walls, as they are not reproducing sub frequencies at all!!

I use a BR12 driven by a bridged Samson Servo 300 watt amp as my monitor speaker, and it is good when it comes to bass but I wouldn't call it great. Plenty to bump in a home setup, though!!

If you really want the walls to shake, look into investing in a powered subwoofer in the future to add to your existing system. You can get a decent 15" powered sub that will definately shake the walls at home for around $500. I would go powered just because you can run it through your current mixing amp through the monitor section and be able to independently control your sub from your mains OR just run the sub between your amp and your speakers and take advantage of the internal crossover, which would actually probably make your mains even sound a bit better since they wouldn't be responsible for some of the lower frequencies, freeing up more amp power to the woofer/mid frequencies and creating a quasi-three way setup.

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C Mc
KJ, FL

Very good stuff! I think I will look into a powered sub next! Maybe this new amp will be the ticket!

OK here goes.... from the audio neophyte ... If I have some 10" mains  with 3" horns/tweeters and add a 15" powered sub does dumping the lows to the mains have the effect of boosting the power to the mids and highs in the mains?

My background is playing a horn and singing and I'm trying to learn this electrical sound stuff.

It won't boost power to the mains, but if the system is properly crossed over & proper power ratings, the mains will be getting a cleaner signal & not try to reproduce the frequencies the sub is now doing.

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